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My Complete A-Z of Beauty

17 March 2021

My A-Z guide of beauty, from ingredients and qualities, to products and brands.

A is for… Acne

1 in 20 adult women suffer from acne, and even more get the occasional spot or blemish outbreak. Clay, Charcoal and Oil based products are all great for tackling acne and spots. It is not caused by poor hygiene, contrary to many things you may hear. Outbreaks can be due to your lifestyle; diet, stress etc as much as your skincare regime, so whilst treating or responding to spots with

B is for… BB creams

BB creams are short for beauty balms or blemish balms. They were first developed in Germany by a dermatologist who wanted a single cream that would protect skin and provide coverage after laser treatments.

C is for… Collagen

Collagen. Is responsible for the skin’s plump and youthful appearance, and begins to deplete at the age of 25. Be vary of companies that claim that their products can plump collagen into the skin, as collagen molecules are generally too large to penetrate into the skin. We can feed the skin with nutrients that can trigger production. Treatments such as needling, radio frequency and ‘HIFU – High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound’.

D is for… Dark Circles

We’ve all had dark circles under our eyes, whether we are a bit run down, tired, or naturally have a darker ring under our eyes, it’s a common problem, but there are measures we should take to help. The 3 most important tools to have are; a good eye cream, sleep and a targeted dark circles product for those particularly bad days. The area around the eyes is very thin, a specific cream for your eyes should always be used, not a regular face moisturizer. TIP – use a concealer that is 1-2shades lighter than your foundation to brighten the under eye area.

E is for… Expiry Dates

The expiry date on a product is from the time that the product is opened. This is usually indicated on the back of the product, which will indicate how long the product is viable once opened. It can vary from 6-18 months from time of opening, depending on the product.

F is for…Facials

Facials can have numerous benefits from improvement in skin tone, texture and they are just pure bliss. So go on treat yourself!

G is for…Glycolic Acid

Derived from sugar cane may sound scary, but it can work miracles on the skin. It’s molecular make up is so small, that it works deep into the skin, treating lines and wrinkles, brightening skin and rejuvenates skin cells.

Ren’s Glycolatic Radiance Renewal Mask tackles lines, brightens skin and combats congestion.

H is For… Hyaluronic Acid

This naturally occurring molecule is right up there in the anti-ageing stakes – it works to lubricate the connective tissues in your skin, keeping pores plump and hydrated. Our own reserves reduce as we age so applying this ingredient topically is vital for preserving a youthful glow.

I is For… Inflammation

Symptoms of inflammation in the body can be numerous and vague – ranging from fatigue to headaches – and your skin is no exception. Triggered by poor nutrition, pollution, sunlight and stress, dermatologists agree inflammation is the real culprit behind pretty much every skin issue, including wrinkles. Gluten, dairy and processed foods as well as excessive sugar and alcohol are the biggest offenders.

J is for… Juices

An easy way to give your skin a daily boost, start every day with a fresh fruit or vegetable juice. Berries are packed with antioxidants, while citrus fruits are packed with vitamin C which slows down the skin’s ageing process.

K is for… Keratosis Pilaris

Keratosis Pilaris is a genetic skin disorder and affects 40% of adults (and up to 80% of adolescents). These painless tiny bumps usually on the upper arms, thighs and cheeks, can leave the affected area dry and rough. People often don’t recognise them as a skin condition, but just a case of bad skin. There are many products designed to reduce the appearance such as Creams containing alpha hydroxy acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid or urea help loosen and remove dead skin cells. They also moisturize and soften dry skin. Depending on their strength, these creams are available over-the-counter or with a prescription. Creams derived from vitamin A (topical retinoids) work by promoting cell turnover and preventing plugged hair follicles.

L is for… Lines.

We all hear the expression ‘fine lines and wrinkles’ almost daily. It’s everywhere. You have all heard it but, sun exposure is the biggest culprit in terms of skin ageing. In terms of prevention, SPF is your answer. Retinol will synthesise collagen and elastin and Ingredients like hyaluronic acid will plump up your skin.

M is for… Moisturisers

Moisturisers are one of the most important parts of your skincare routine. Replenishing moisturise and hydration into the skin is the key to healthy skin. Think of all the elements and things you expose your skin to that takes its natural moisture; weather, foods, face washes, make up. Look for ingredients that contain humectants and emollients.

N is for… Natural

Up to 60% of what we put on our skin ends up being absorbed in the body and when the products we use are made from harmful artificial ingredients these place an unnecessary burden on the body’s detoxification processes and on the entire immune system, including the skin. We have lots of home grown natural beauty brands making waves at home and abroad which include Voya, Seavite and newcomer Ripe by Roz. Kinvara’s Absolute Cleansing Oil, another natural product that has won over beauty editors (and acne sufferers too).

O is for… Oils

Often feared by many particularly those with oily skin. Face oils return moisture and elasticity to your skin, smoothing wrinkles and soothing irritation in the process. The right face oil can help clear pores of excess sebum, and can reduce inflammation and irritation, as inflammation itself is actually one of the primary causes of acne.

P is for…Parabens

Parabens are the most widely used preservatives in personal care products. Parabens stop fungus, bacteria and other microbes from growing in your favourite creams.

Q & U – Lets just skip those for a while 🙂

R is for… Rosacea

Rosacea is a skin condition that typically affects the face, usually around the nose and cheeks. It results in redness, pimples, swelling, and small and superficial dilated blood vessels. It usually occurs in people over 30 and is often referred to as acne rosacea. Laser can be successful in treating this condition.

S is for… SPF

Sun Protection Factor. The number that follows is a measure of the time it will take for your skin to burn with the sunscreen applied, in comparison to unprotected skin. . Example: If your unprotected skin would burn in 10 minutes, an SPF30 product (correctly applied) would give her 30 x 10 minutes in the sun before burning.

T Is for… T-Zone

If you have oily or combination skin, chances are good you struggle with the area on your face known as your t-zone. If you’re unfamiliar with what exactly your t-zone is, imagine drawing a “T” on your face. Your t-zone consists of your forehead, nose, and chin. An oily t-zone requires a little bit of extra care and protection. Even so, it won’t go without saying that t-zone area may also get dehydrated.

U is for… Ultra-violet Rays

The sunlight that reaches are skin is made up of two types of rays, UVA and UVB. UVA causes premature ageing to the skin and

UVB rays that cause the skin to tan and burn. Protect your skin with a SPF of at least 30.

V is for… Volume

We spend thousands of euro’s on beauty products throughout our lifetime. But how much of that is wasted? For moisturizers and night creams, aim for the volume and length of one almond. When it comes to eye cream, less is best, a sunflower seeds worth for each eye is sufficient.

W is for… Water

Making up almost two thirds of our body, water plays a vital role in everything from regulating body temperature to keeping our skin healthy. And when it comes to skin health, drinking at least two litres is essential for a youthful complexion. Keep your face hydrated throughout the day, especially if you work in an airconditioned office or flying with a plumping face mist. I love Uriage Thermal water mist €7.98.

X, Y and Zzzz…

Make an effort to get your beauty sleep – when we sleep, our skin goes into rest mode, repairing damage caused by the sun’s rays and harmful pollution. Adequate sleep will restore luminosity to the skin while improving tone and texture – there’s a reason beauty experts call it the best-kept anti-ageing secret.

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Sara’s Beauty Hacks

17 March 2021

Thicker Eyebrows

Thicker eyebrows are in and a natural and budget friendly way to grow your brows is pure pressed castor oil. You can get this in most health food shops. It contains fatty acids and protein that hair needs to grow long and strong.

Using a cotton bud or your finger tip and apply the oil to your brows. Leave the oil overnight, wash it off in the morning and repeat as regularly as you can for best results.

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Body Scrub

If you want to scrub your skin naturally while you are in the shower all you need to do is add a little sea salt to your shower gel. Exfoliating is important if you want your skin to look bright and fresh but if you want to save the pennies, take the natural route and exfoliate while you wash.

Spotlight on … Exfoliation

While daily cleansing and moisturizing is needed to maintain great skin, the not-so-hidden beauty secret to glowing skin is through exfoliation. Exfoliation treatments can help with skin rejuvenation, elasticity and collagen and removes dead skin cells from the surface. It will help tired, scarred or old skin look fresher, softer and smoother . You can exfoliate your face and body, and you can either do professional treatments or DIY at-home treatments.

I recently tried Declare’s soft Cleansing enzyme peel €26.95 which uses enzymes to gently exfoliates the surface of the skin. Because it is not a mechanical exfoliant, it is perfect for all skin types even the most sensitive of skins. It leaves your skin feeling really smooth straight after the first use. It get a thumbs up from me.

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Lucy Zender tells us how to achieve a flawless brow

28 February 2021

woman in red lipstick hiding behind green leaves

Lucy Zender is the creator and founder of Tweezerfile, an award-winning and innovative new beauty product that allows you to sharpen your old blunt tweezers and bring them back to life. Hold your tweezers with the blades together, then slide the tweezer up and down the Tweezerfile, gently applying equal pressure on the top and bottom blade. After a few strokes, your tweezers will be back to their old glory, gripping even the shortest hair!

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I caught up with Lucy Zender, creator and founder of Tweezerfile and she has given us the following tips and tricks to achieving a flawless brow.

Eyebrows out of control, following lockdowns and restrictions or do you just want to keep them as neat as possible until you can next get to an appointment? Or perhaps you have been taking a more do-it-at-home attitude to your beaty regimes over recent months.

Whatever your motivation, if you’re planning to do a DIY eyebrow tidy, you want to do it right. Here are my 6 top tips for getting flawless eyebrows in the comfort of your own home.

Get prepared:

Pluck your eyebrows after a bath or shower, so your pores are open and your skin softer. If you don’t have time, hold a warm, damp flannel to your brows for a couple of minutes to achieve a similar effect. Make sure you’re relaxed and have everything you need to hand. Most importantly, ensure your mirror is completely clean and fit for the job and that you have good light – but avoid magnifying mirrors and very bright lighting as that can lead to over-plucking.

Determine your eyebrow shape

In order to pluck your natural line, you need to determine the three vital points of your brows. Then you can pluck around these markers. These points are:

Start – With your eyebrow pencil, hold it vertically against your ‘nasal wing’ (the fattest part of your nostril). Mark with your other pencil where it meets your eyebrow.
Arch – this is the highest part of your eyebrow and can be determined by holding your pencil against your nasal wing again but this time at an angle so that it runs past the outer part of your pupil. Where this meets the eyebrow is your arch point. Again, this should be marked.
End – With the pencil still on your nasal wing, turn it so it runs past the outward corner of your eye. Where it touches the brow, mark the end of your eyebrow.

Careful plucking

Work from the inside, over to the outside then underneath i.e. first pluck the hairs between your eyebrows, then pluck the hairs above your arch, to properly define it. Next, take out any hairs that are on the outside of your end mark. When you have done this, pluck under your brow. This is where you can determine how thick or thin your brows are. Be really careful to keep the plucking underneath consistent in both eyebrows!

In fact, make sure you don’t do one eyebrow and then the other. Instead do a few hairs on one eyebrow and then even it up on the other side. Stop regularly and check that they are coming out even.

To make your plucking most efficient, stretch your skin tight and pluck from as close to the root as you can get. This makes it far less likely that you will break a hair and leave it too short to grab with your tweezers. Also, pull the hair in the direction it grows, to make it easier to pluck.

Trim stragglers:

Once you have your shape, you may want to just tidy up long hairs that have a nasty habit of pointing out at odd angles. Take your brow brush and brush your hairs up, then very carefully use your eyebrow scissors to trim them to the right length.

Add finishing touches:

It’s likely the skin around your eyebrows will be inflamed and sore once you have finished, so have a soothing cream to hand.

Once they have calmed down you can go the extra mile with a couple of finishing touches.

If you still have errant hairs, use a specially-designed transparent gel to smooth them into place and keep them there.
If you did over-pluck or have small gaps in your eyebrow, use your eyebrow pencil to gently draw some tiny lines to replace the errant hairs.

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Look after your tweezers:

After a few times plucking your own brows, you’ll probably have got the hang of looking after them. However, don’t forget also to look after the tools of your trade, namely your tweezers.

Many people simply throw their tweezers back in their makeup bag when they have finished with them. The trouble with this is that they are more likely to get the tips blunted and blunt tweezers are not effective. Blunt tweezers tend to bend and break hairs or simply not work at all.

So, when you have finished perfecting your brows, wipe your tweezers clean and store them either in a special storage pouch or point-up in a pot or other receptacle. If your Tweezers came with those little plastic covers on the tips, keep hold of them and replace them after each use to protect them from dust, etc.

However well you look after them, they will blunt eventually and what do you do then? Well, most people simply throw them away and get a new pair. Alternatively, look for a Tweezer file designed specifically for tweezers that is easy-to-use and will ensure your tweezers are always in tip top condition and will last and last!

I hope you’ve found these tips useful and that you can enjoy nice trim brows, whether this is a change for good or just until your favourite beautician is able safely reopen their doors! However good your DIY job, I suspect you may be glad to let them work their magic again when the time comes!

Tweeerfile is available in two beautiful colours, coral and petrol blue. Available via Tweezerfile.com and from Amazon.

Web: https://www.tweezerfile.com/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/tweezerfile/

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The return of the beauty industry after Covid

17 January 2021

The beauty industry is one of the safest - Boris Johnson must get ...

The global beauty industry has been shocked by the covid-19 crisis, but the industry has responded positivity to the crisis. I spoke to a few owners across the beauty industry and asked them how they are coping since re-opening, the challenges they face and how long do they think it will take for the industry to recover.

‘When we closed our doors in March due to Covid 19, it was like we were living on a movie set it was so surreal. I was devastated but knew it was the right thing to do, being closed for almost 4 months was the hardest hurdle we have faced in business and being a new business of just 2 years as we were still building our brand and closing left us very unsure of the future and almost felt at one time we would be starting all over again but we knew we would be doing everything in our power to make sure our doors reopened. We used the time to upskill and carry on learning about everything that we love to do. We made maximum changes in line with all guidelines to ensure the best customer experience and to have a safe salon for clients and staff members. We have always been an upbeat fast pace salon with walk ins always welcome and we have now had to extend appointment times to accommodate all the extra sanitising before and after each client. Hygiene was always at the highest standards at Darque but now we are above and beyond with very strict protocols in place, we have sanitisers all around our salon, PPE is worn by staff & clients, social distancing is very important and we are very firm with it, we have Perspex between sections and portable Perspex for any clients who may be extremely nervous. Our client numbers have also been reduced as we no longer have a waiting area and we are limited to the numbers in our salon at one time. I feel like the salon experience still feels the same for our clients, just with a few twists. We have had amazing support from clients and great feedback with regard to all the work we have done to the salon to keep everyone feeling confident that safety is key when they enter. I do think our industry will take quite some time to bounce completely back to how it used to be if it even does, I honestly think this is the new normal now & I do think everyone will adjust to it and that amazing salon feeling that we all love will again return. It’s one of the safest places to be as our industry always has had the highest hygiene standards so after some weeks, I can see things getting better once everyone remains careful and all advice is always adhered to. We love what we do, and we are so happy to get back doing what we love the most and seeing our clients support us as soon as we open our doors is an amazing feeling. It won’t be an easy road but with passion and drive we will give it our all, we look forward to welcoming old and new clients back to Darque to experience the new salon experience’. Melanie, Owner Darque Tanning Studio & Blow Dry Parlour

‘Since covid shut us down, reopening will be a huge challenge for people especially within the beauty industry. We all need to make sure we protect ourselves and our clients with best practices and good product hygiene. I see the future being bright again, and I already have people rebooking back in – but it will take time’. John Paul Payne Makeup

Due to Covid 19, Gellicious Nail & Beauty Stuido & Gellicious Academy were closed from the 16th of March. Staff used this time to educate themselves on the virus and up-skill in salon cleanliness for a safe re-opening. Gellicious re-opened on the 29th of June following all guidelines set out by the HSE and we are delighted to welcome back our loyal clients that have stuck with us through this strange time. A constant effort is being made at Gellicious to monitor all updates regarding Covid 19 as both our clients and staff health and well-being are a priority to us. We hope to see you soon for your nail appointment, we have missed you all!

Kathy, Natalia & team – Gellicious Nail & Beauty Studio and Academy

‘I closed my salon doors on St. Patrick’s weekend and I never imagined it would be nearly four months before I held a set of tweezers in my hands again. While I’m delighted to be reopened I would be lying if I said I wasn’t a bit anxious as to what the future holds for my small business. The long term impact is that even when the Covid crisis is over people will still be very cautious about their intimate experience with their beautician. I think people are taking a step back and thinking ‘Is this the cleanest most hygienic place I can put myself in’. That being said the beauty industry has always adhered to strict hygiene procedures. I have totally revamped my salon with a new air purifying system and a sanitising unit, so I’m open for business looking forward to doing lashes for my amazing clients. Debbie Gibney – Lashes by Debbie Gibney

Treatments

The latest in non-invasive beauty treatments

17 December 2020

photo of woman talking to the sick patient

Non-surgical and cosmetic procedures have come a long way since the late 1990’s. I think nowadays people just want to look better, not different. They still want to look like themselves, only a better version.

I spoke to Dr Brenner from Faceworks in Carlow about the advances in non-invasive beauty treatments. “It’s a very exciting field of medicine to work in as there are so many innovative treatments being developed. While the dermal fillers and anti-wrinkle treatments are as popular as ever, we now have many other non-invasive and safe options available to give really natural results. We have seen a lot of interest in the PRP facial (also known as the Vampire facial) which uses a small sample of the client’s blood, extracting repair and growth factors which are then used to stimulate skin renewal. We are hoping the injectable treatment for under-chin fat will be approved over the coming months in Ireland, following years of successful treatments in the US.”

Anti-wrinkle injections and fillers

Anti-wrinkle injections and fillers are still the top two non-surgical procedures performed worldwide. Anti-wrinkle injections work on wrinkles which result from making facial expressions, such as forehead wrinkles, vertical lines between the eyebrows when you frown (often referred to as (the 11’s) and crow’s feet. It acts by impeding the nerve impulses that cause the underlying muscle to activate, resulting in smoother and tighter skin.

Facial Fillers

Facial fillers function very differently to anti-wrinkle injections. Fillers add volume to the skin. Dermal fillers are used to treat static wrinkles caused by loss of volume or the effects of gravity e.g. naso labial folds (the lines from the nose-mouth).

Non-surgical Body Contouring

Liposuction is still the gold standard for fat removal, yet it is invasive, expensive and requires downtime. A lot of other options for fat loss, toning and contouring are available from Vaserlipo-suction to fat freezing.

Vaserlipo uses ultrasound body contouring technology to eliminate fat from various areas of the body. It is a minimally invasive procedure with no sedation or general anaesthetic required. Dr Khalout in Castlknock Cosmetic Clinic says ‘The procedure works by using ultrasound technology to break down and separate fat cells which literally shake the fat cells while leaving fat, blood cells and nerves unharmed. The loose fat cells are then removed by gentle suction’.

Photo courtesy of Castlenock Cosmetic Clinic – Vaser Lipo

Fat Freezing

Fat freezing can come under lots of different names – cool sculpting, cryolipolysis but they all do the same thing – freeze fat! Sabrina from Aphrodite Laser & Beauty Clinic says ‘that between 20-40% of the fat cells begin a natural removal of elimination through the body which can take 2-4 months. Results are gradual, but it is very noticeable permanent fat layer reduction’.

Laser Tattoo Removal

Laser tattoo removal has seen a huge increase over the past few years and a recent poll conducted by Syneron-Candela claims that 39% of 2,000 people regretted getting their tattoos. A tattoo will stay on the body because the ink particles in your tattoo are two large to be broken down by the body’s natural immune system. The laser breaks the tattoo particles down and the smaller particles are naturally removed by the body. Most professional tattoos typically require 7 to 14 treatment sessions at monthly intervals. Unfortunately, no pain no gain. You should expect to experience slight discomfort but it won’t feel any worse than when you were getting your tattoo in the first place.

Double Chin Jab

Fat dissolving ingredient Kybella is creating a stir in the US. It was used first in 2015 for the treatment of double chins. The only disadvantage is that it requires multiple treatments and lots of injections, which requires a little downtime as swelling can last for a few days.

Best Non-Surgical Anti-ageing Treatments

13 March 2019

As the human body ages, there is a loss of subcutaneous fat that can lead to fine lines and wrinkles. One of the other contributing factors is sun exposure that leads to skin discoloration and fine wrinkles. I have put together a list of non-surgical anti-ageing treatments that can be used to keep your skin looking young and healthy.

Injectables

1. Dermal Fillers

Fillers can give effective and immediate results to plump up an area that has lost volume. It can fill in deep folds under the skin, create fuller lips and cheeks. It can create an appearance of a fuller skin.

Traditionally, collagen was used for dermal fillers, but Hyaluronic Acid (Restylane, Juvederm) is more popular now as it occurs naturally in the body.

2. Muscle Relaxers

Botulinum toxin (Botox, Dysport) temporary paralyzes the muscles, appearing to give a smooth appearance to the fine lines and wrinkles. It doesn’t really help improve the skin tone or texture. It works best on the upper third part of the face especially around the eyes and forehead.

4. Fat Melting

Using Deoxycholic acid (Kybella) injection helps the fat break down and absorb into the body. This is used to target the sagging fat under the chin.

Skin Treatments

These procedures can give your skin a smoother appearance with reduced fine lines and wrinkles. It is basically a method of removing the top layer of skin in a controlled manner.

1. Chemical Peel Treatments

The exfoliating chemical is applied directly to the skin. It causes the skin to shed resulting in fresher skin cells. When using a higher concentration of chemicals, it emulates a skin wound causing the body to increase collagen production. The new skin is tighter and helps reduce fine lines, small scars, skin discoloration, and sun damage.
Popular beauty brands make lower concentrations of glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and trichloracetic acid that can be purchased easily online or at beauty stores to be used at home. Some people can get adverse reactions, so it is advisable if you are using over 20% to go to a recognised clinic.

2. Dermarolling

Dermal rollers boost collagen production.

Jade facial roller reduces inflammation and boosts collagen production. They have been known to be used in ancient China. The jade stone is believed to have natural healing properties. Recent beauty trends have shown a renewed interest in the jade and rose quartz rollers. The recommended usage is to roll your face after applying night cream and serums on a clean face.

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Microneedling face roller system has small needles that cause micro-tears in the system, leading the body to promote collagen production to heal the area.

3. Dermaplaning

This is the process of gently scraping off the top layer of skin that contain dead skin cells so that the underneath brighter complexion can be removed.

4. Microdermabrasion

This is the process of removing the top layer of skin using crystals or diamond tipped wand to exfoliate the skin. Similar to chemical peels, it helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin texture.

Laser/Other Treatments

1. Laser Procedures

This procedure is used to improve the overall wellness of the skin, targeting fine lines, skin tone, and texture. The damage caused by lasers promote collagen promotion that helps plump up the skin. The laser procedures can be used to target the skin at varying depths, depending on the desired result.

2. IPl & other heat-based treatments

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) uses intense light to heat the epidermis and dermis to stimulate collagen production. It requires a series of treatments that show gradual improvement. It is best for improving skin tone and texture.

Other heat-based treatments include the use of:

3.Radio-frequency (Thermage) can smoothen, tighten and improve the appearance of skin. It is an expensive procedure which can last a couple of years.

4.Ultrasound (Ultherapy, HIFU) can help lift and tighten skin.

5. Jett plasma uses plasma to stimulate and contract the skin, causing tightening and lifting

5. Personal LED anti-ageing device

LED light therapy offers a lot of benefits and their effect varies based on the varying coloured lights and their varying wavelengths. There are also handheld LED-based devices that can be used at home. It is painless and requires minimal to no recovery time.

Infrared helps reduce inflammation, accelerate healing and promote circulation.
Amber helps build collagen and elastin.
Red helps reduce inflammation and promotes circulation.
Blue destroys acne bacteria, preventing new breakouts while treating existing ones
They require multiple treatment sessions before you see start seeing results.

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Photo by PHOTOGRAPHY Toporowski